Day 5: adventures

Today was my 'being super touristy but yet still adventurous' day. Up for a 7am pick up, will the ongoing stomach issues, I was picked up for a morning of quad biking round the Cambodian country side. I ended up being the only person on the trip, so after a quick safety briefing we headed off into the countywide, through paddly fields, streams, villages. It was super fun.

I arrived back in town for lunch time, covered in mud and took myself off for a little nap for a few hours. Still feeling ropey.

I then got picked up to go zip lining within the Angkor wat temple complex. This was super fun and luckerly my stomach heals it together until the evening. 

We did 10 zip lines all in all through the Cambodian rain forest.

The evening consisted of supper out with some dorm buddies, although I didn't really/ could really eat anything. Then we headed for a drink at the amply named 'Angkor What? ' bar. 

Day 4: chillaxing

This morning I had a much needed lie in. Although the last two days were great, I was so exhausted come last night so allowed myself to sleep as long as need be this morning. Arising around 10am, me and my dorm mate Karen headed to the sister srey cafe over looking the river for healthy breakfast and real coffee. This great little spot is run by two Aussies who decided to mate siem reap their home. The cafe is run as an ngo and supports local charities. 

Breakfast was great. We then wandered back getting caught in the most insane monsoon rain I've ever seen. It was biblical. We decided to detour on the way home to the lemongrass spa and settled in for an afternoon of treatments. I had a facial and 90 min massage. Was so indulgent but only cost about £20 for the lot. 

After spa I was feeling a little ropey so came back for a nap, fully intending on going to yoga. However I slept for a few more hours and still felt a little poorly when I woke up. I headed out with the dorm girls for supper and a wander at the night market. We ate at genevieves. Another go restaurant fun by a Aussie man. 

Tomorrow is another early start as I'm going quad biking and zip lining. 

Day 3: photography course Angkor wat

Another 4 am start today as if pre booked a photography course around the Angkor wat temples. What better place to learn how to properly use my camera and get some epic pictures of the beautiful temples. 

I was picked up by the British photography instructed with just one other person on the course. Arriving at the temples before sunrise, with a quick as easy demonstration of how to maximise the features on the camera and why and how to use a tripod. 

despite a significant lack of sun again, I got some great shots of the main temple, Angkor Wat itself.

We continued on to Angkor Thom, the temple features in tomb raider. Arriving before all the other tourists we had the place to ourself and got some fantastic pics despite the monsoon rain.

We saw another two temples pre lunch, a little more of the beaten path, learning how to have an image focused in the forefront with a blurry background.

After popping back into town for lunch and a much needed power nap, we headed back out into the rain, to the temple of faces (my favourite).

Then we were off to another temple deep in the jungle, with hardly had any other visitors. It was so beautiful, but again was another temple being consumed by the jungle.

We headed up a massive hill around 6:30 hoping for a lovely sunset but alas still too cloudy, so dragged ourselves back to town, exhausted but super happy with the pictures id taken that day. And the 17.5 km We'd walked.

Supper tonight was with some other people from the hostel. We went to a great little Mexican place called viva. I've been trying to just be veggie whilst I'm

Here and this place had a ton of options. 

I crashed around 10pm ready for a proper nights sleep and a much needed lie in.

Day 2 Siem Reap: the first glimpse of Angkor wat

Having woken up at 4 am this morning... All booked for the 'sunrise tour' the day started with me getting locked out my

Dorm in just a towel after my morning shower. Classic hostel style. After that disaster I managed to sink a coffee before leaving with all the other hostel kids for a mere $6 for half a day Angkor tour. We got to the gates to buy our passes just as it was getting light and by the time we made it to the viewing point for sunrise, not only was it ramp packed with tourists, it was light and there was no sign of the sun behind the clouds.

Still Angkor wat was as breathtaking as ever. This mystical city emerges out of the jungle from no where. 

After walking round Angkor we carried on to another temple called batong, the temple of faces which was really breathtaking (and it think was my favourite). We managed to get there before the rest of the tourists had left Angkor wat so pretty much had it to ourselves.

Next up was a temple with a lot of climbing to do. With very narrow steps.

Followed by the famous Angkor thom, the temple used in the film tomb raider (and my second favourite). The jungle has literary over taken this temple. Tree roots bursting through walls, green moss covering the statues, tumbling walls. It's really spectacular. 

After wandering round a few other temples in the complex, we returned by lunch time and chilled a little.

I then headed down to the museum of Angkor wat, a brand new set up explaining some of the history of this Khmer city. Well worth a visit.

Lunch was at the peace cafe, a community run NGO serving delicious veggie food with community outreach programs, yoga and a cookery class  ( on my list for later in the week). 

After lunch I retired to a little glorious coffee shop for an iced coffee and some chill time before and hour of sunshine by the rooftop pool. 

Next up was double yoga again, with the flying class pushing us a little further today, and glorious vinyasa thereafter. 

(Yes that's me)

Dinner was with the hostel crowd at famous Marum. Another NGO based restaurant training up underprivileged Cambodians to be waiters and chefs. The food was Khmer style and we opted for all the veggie Cambodian tapas. And desert. And the most amazing mango and coconut mojito. 

Off to bed now in prep for another 4am start!

Day 1 Siem Reap

Well I made it to yet another new country. Pretty good flight with Thai air, slept about 6 hours then a very close connection at Bangkok where I nearly didn't make my empty flight to Cambodia, but got here in the end. 

Having sorted my visa out straight away and with a stash of dollars in my back pocket, immigration was a breeze. I was picked up by my tuk tuk driver from Onedez Hostel and finally made it (despite a flat tyre on the way!).

Checked in to my dorm, locked the bags up and headed out for a much needed massage at lemongrass spa. $12 for an hour and it was amazing! I might have to go everyday...

I then came back and chilled by the rooftop pool for a bit before meeting two of the other girls in my dorm. One from Singapore and the other from New York. 

I managed to persued them both to join me for flying yoga and stay on for a second yoga class or vinyasa flow. So relaxing. 

Just trying to plan the rest of the week now. Aiming to get up at 4 tomorrow for sunrise over Angkor wat.

Looking at doing a photography course at Angkor wat itself and then a day zip lining and quad biking.

Will probably do a Cambodian cooking course just to add to my repetitoire. And lots more yoga and massages!

The next adventure: channeling my inner Lara croft in Cambodia...

It seems like ages since I last had an adventure. Although it's only been a few months it seems like all I've done is work work work since Morocco with Saoirse. This trip to Cambodia has sort of come out of no where. It's been a place I've wanted to visit since my first trip to Thailand, aged 18, when I was off working on the Thai/Burmese border with hill tribes and refugees. 

I'm hoping for a week of adventures, relaxing and time for reflection on the last few months. Here we go! 

Day 14 and day 15: back to Kathmandu

We awoke to glorious sunshine this morning. However despite the beautiful weather in the mountains, the weather back in Kathmandu was not quite so lovely and our flight was delayed 4 hours or so while we waiting for things to improve. 

We finally got called up and boarded the tiny plane back to the land of hot showers. 

First thing was first when we got back. Shower time. The boys went off to get beards trimmed and massages. I think I spent at least an hour scrubbing and managed to then find the only hair dryer in Kathmandu. Joy of joys. 

We reassembled for supper, all pretty much irrecognisable from our 'mountain' selves and headed off for pizza, beers and good times. 

Our last day we all awoke feeling a little different jaded. The altitude, weight loss and physical exercise of the previous two weeks mend our alcohol tolerance was severely impaired.

With various departure times throughout the day, a few of us headed out to the monkey temple to take in the views and see one of the main hoghlights of Kathmandu. 

It was definately worth seeing, but the effects of the earthquake have been pretty devastating here. And the rebuild is still ongoing.

Next came the time to bid farewell to my new family and flying back to the uk.

This trip had been literally life changing. I've pushed myself more that I ever thought I could and achieved something I never dreamed I would. I've seen some of the most beautiful scenery of my life but also some of the worse poverty.

I've made a new family, who I hope I'll stay in contact with. Most of all I've shown myself I can achieve the unimaginable if I just put my mind to it and focus.onwards and upwards. 

Day 1 and 2 Morocco: Riads and Waterfalls

After we departed London on the earliest flight out of stansted, we arrived in North Africa to glorious sunshine, blue skies and the sound of the call to prayer. Not bad for a 3 1/2 trip from London. 

We got the practicals out the way; visa, currency, check in and set off to explore the magical city of Marrakesh.

Our riad Saoirse found on Mr and Mrs Smith, the Talaa 12. It was clad with beautiful Moroccan linen, lamps and grey washed walls. The room was out of this world with a roof terrace that takes your breath away. Not a bad place to call home for the next 4 days.

We headed off to get lost around the winding streets; starting with the highly recommended Photography Museum of Marrakesh. A wonderfully curated collection of black and white photos of Norfolk and morrocan culture and influence dating back to 1842. As amazing as the photographs were I feel in love with the tiled floor of the beautiful riad the museum was housed in.

We had a little drink on the roof terrace before heading into the medina to explore.

The riad is like a very beautiful maze. Magic carpets, Aladdins lamps, bejewelled rings, not the mention the genie shoes I kept eyeing up. 

After a wander, a ice cream and getting extremely lost, we retired back to our Riads roof terrace for snoozes and sun bathing. 

Evening came and we decided to head for an early dinner at a nearby restaurant, highly recommended by the hotel called la foulouk. The lamp tagine was literally like changing. The wine however was not. Note to self, don't order wine in Morocco. After some minor celeb spotting we headed back for probably the best night sleep of my life, or at least 2016. Thank you riad talaa 12.

Day 2 was an early start of Moroccan breakfast and a whole pot of coffee before we headed to Ouzoud and Alzad Waterfalls, the highest in North Africa at 2045 m and the second highest in Africa, after Victoria falls in Zimbabwe. 

The two hour drive took us through beautiful desert landscapes with snow caped peaks in the background.

We arrived at the waterfall early and met our guide who walked us off road down from the top of the waterfall, through  fields of olive trees down to the valley at the bottom. The views were breathtaking. 

I was very glad to have my trusty walking boots on. And only managed to slip over once with was good. We stopped at the bottom for a little boat ride up to the falls, then had a run in with some monkeys on the way back up. 

We devoured a delicious lunch out on the terrace before a bit more hiking and our long drive back to the city. With Moroccan mint tea to greet us when we got back. 

We downloaded the hip Marrakesh app before heading out, leading us through the souk into the main square to a tiny place of the beaten track for another amazing tagine. 

We then explore the night market, soaking up the atmosphere and stocked up on baklava for the day a head tomorrow. All in all a good day. 

Off on a mini adventure

So it's March. And I've already got itchy feet being back in the UK. I've just finished work at midnight and now I'm off to stansted for a trip to Morocco with Saoirse for her birthday! Super excited.

Looking forward to more adventures! Hiking, seeing waterfalls and hot air ballooning! 

Day 13: heading back to lukla

We awoke this morning for a 5 hour trek back to lukla, with the hope of getting our flight out of the mountains tomorrow. 

The sun was shining as we walked across rope bridges, through the Forrest than lines the river. The path was 'undulating' at best, with more up hill than down hill as we steedily climbed back up to lukla town. 

We stopped after 2 hours for tea at the first tea house we stayed at nearly two weeks ago. There was real coffee which was a dream. 

We then had our last 3 hour trek back. We walked mostly in silence, all quietly reflecting on the previous two weeks; the endless miles we seem to have walked, the cold, the lack of showers, the cold. 

We turned a corner and steadily climbed the last uphill into lukla. It started to snow. The streets were lined with children playing football and bat and ball. Chickens running everywhere, dogs following us along the road. We walked back passed 'starbucks' ( it's not real by the way) lukla burger and Everest coffee shop, arriving as our guest house, the first place we ate when we arrived. 

Exhausted.

We headed back out to Everest coffee shop for lattes and wifi and even a slightly stale chocolate brownie.

Dinner was at 6. We decided to pay for all the Sherpas and guides supper as well. We had our last 'Nepalese veg set' gave out tips on envelopes with cards written on the London postcards I brought with me. Louise did a little speak and we settled in for an Everest beer or two.

Tomorrow we await our fait of whether the weather gods are kind to us and our flight out of lukla runs, letting us back to the land of showers, clean clothes and onward flights home. 

Day 12: Namche fun times and heading down

We had a lovely lesuirely lie in this morning in namche, getting up around 10 and heading to the 'Everest bakery' for real coffee and wifi. We did a bit of shopping round namche then had lunch at our tea house before heading off for a down hill walking day back towards lukla.

We were all feeling pretty rough today. After the elation of base camp we are now all a bit over the freezing cold and really want a shower and clean clothes.

We headed out of namche for an hour of downhill walking. The scenery was stunning with pine trees, eagles and the sound of the river in the background. It even started to snow.

Down hill was great but felt much tougher on our muscles and joints. About half way down I was feeling pretty dizzy and starting to get vertigo, probably from exhaustion of the previous 10 days or so.

We continued down passed herds of yaks and mules and finally came to the double rope bridge ( as seen in the Everest film). We had 4 rope bridges over the river over the next few hours before arriving at our lodge for the night.

We arrived around 3 in time for the fire being lit. Changed clothes (attempted to find something clean) and settled in for an early dinner of more momos.

It's crazy to think we only have one more day of trekking. We've walked over 150 km in the last ten days for on average 7 hours a day. We've survived on limited sleep with most nights below minus 20. All we've eaten is potatoes, rice and noodles. Oh and the occasional egg.

Tomorrow, just 5 hours of hiking lie between us and lukla where we await with baited breath to find out if our flight is running on Tuesday morning to take us back to Kathmandu. Land of the hot shower. 

Day 11: arriving back at Namche

OWe awoke this morning in the warmth of 4000 (ish) meters. I think I slept nearly 12 hours after the epic walk yesterday. 

We headed off for another long day of hiking. Which started mostly down hill towards the river for an hour and a half. Despite it being really nice walking down hill, it was quite tough on our knees and by the time we got to the river at the bottom of the valley we were all complaining of achey muscles and joints.

We then headed up hill ( again ) towards tyanboche monastery. Despite it being a really tough walk up hill it was so beautiful, kinda like walking through a winter wonderland, snow on the ground and frozen streams. After another hour uphill we arrived at the monastery. 

It's one of the highest in the world and where hikers visit for blessings before attempting to summit Everest.

Inside was beautiful. No photos allowed. Hand painted walls and golden Buddhas.

Unfortunately our time there was short lived and we decided to press on back down hill towards the river where we stopped for a much needed lunch by a waterfall, sitting outside in the sun and enjoying the increased level of oxygen. 

After lunch we crossed another beautiful but scary rope bridge before and hour and a half up hill constantly on the other side of the river. It was pretty tough again but much easier at this altitude. The views were breathtaking. It was so nice to be back at the tree line with the scent of pine in the air, but still surrounded by snow covered peaks with the view of Everest. 

We reached the top and the path evened out for another 90 mins until we reached namche. We walked over 30 km today. Exhausted we arrived at our new lodge for the night and wandered back into town to our pizza place with the wifi. 

Namche feels like the first bit of civilisation again, despite being another two days walk to our flight home. There's wifi ( occasionally and very slowly) ATMs ( most of which don't work) and apparently hot showers ( or so we were told but apparently it's too cold).

After what feels like a lifetime of walking I'm looking forward to a well needed lie in tomorrow before heading further down the valley for our second to last day of trekking. 

Day 10: Coming down: Gorek shep to Ortso

I decided not to go to kala pattar this morning, as did Louise one of the other girls. We had a little lie in till half 7 then got up for a quick breakfast then headed down hill. The first 3 hours were across the scree again, with a gradual

Incline down hill. Lou wasn't feeling so well so we took it fairly easy.

We stopped for a quick break at the little place we stayed with the amazing wifi then continued further down along side a frozen river and a frozen lake towards the Everest memorial. From there it was straight down hill to lunch and a well needed rest. That was 15 km done already. The others caught up with us as we were just leaving. Then we headed down via Pheriche in a cold and windy valley towards Ortso where we planned to spend the night. 

We were all exhausted today, and after a total of 24 km Walking downhill today and the effort and excitement of yesterday. 

I think today we all realised we just want a hot shower, clean clothes and a warm bed. We still 3 days away from our flight back to Kathmandu - land of the hot shower. 

Day 9: Everest Base Camp

After a terrible night sleep at 5000

Meters we awoke excited but all with headaches, ready (ish) for our trek to base camp. Another breakfast of coffee chapati and egg and Pravin and I set off early to get a little bit of a head start up towards base camp. 

The sun was starting to rise coating the snow covered peaks but it was freezing in the valley ( I call it a valley, but it was at 5000 meters). I had all the layers on, 2 base layers, wind stopper fleece and mums red wind stopper coat plus 3 pairs of socks, think gloves, hat and neck warmer. 

We made a good start and were quite a long way up before we spotted the rest of the group further down the trail. The sun finally came over heating us up but also burning my nose despite the factor 50 suncream I applied every 5 mins.

We continued up, the terrain looked like something from another planet, gravel covered glacier, high mountain peaks, no plants or trees. Deadly silence. The occasional crash of an avalanche on one of the peaks that surrounded us. 

By lunchtime we arrived a Gorak Shep at 5160 meters and collapsed with exhaustion. Forcing down salty chips and full fat Coke to try to get some energy for the last push up to base camp. 

Again Pravin and I set of a bit before the rest around midday and headed first over a flat plateau for 15 mins or so which looked like the surface of the moon. We then headed onto the scree that ran alongside the glacier. There wasn't really a path to speak off, just huge boulders and scree to scramble over. It was exhausting. On the up hills it was so tiring. I was getting out of breath so quickly, with half the oxygen found at sea level. 

Half way up I cracked out my emergency Mars bar but every step was such an effort. 

The others caught up, everyone feeling a bit tired and headachey. Finally we turned onto the glacier, scrambling on the ice, the khume ice fall ahead of us we came over the middle of the glacier and base camp lay in front of us. The only reminants were a few memorials covered in prayer flags. It's too cold for teams

To climb to the top of Everest this time of year so there's no one currently living there at the moment.

We collapsed with exhaustion/ elation. Finally there. Is disbelieve we'd finally made it. There were so many points on this journey I never thought I'd make it. 

We took photos, including one of me with the tiny bottle of jack Daniels grandpa gave me, although I couldn't stomach taking a sip.

After 20 minutes or so of chilling at base camp we started heading back down, over the glacier, along the scree, back towards Gorak shep, tea, more potatoes and the highest elevation 'sleep' I'll probably ever have. I say sleep, it's very hard to sleep at this altitude. Especially given the minus 20 temperature. 

But the time we got back to the tea house my head was throbbing, I felt nauseous and completely exhausted. I took most of the meds in the kit and tried to warm up by the fire. 

After the exhaustion of today I've decided to skip out on the morning trip to kala pattar tomorrow and get back down to lower altitude sooner. 

So today was the day I reach Everest base camp. How many people can say that!

Day 8: Tengboche to Lobuche

We woke up with snow on the ground and glorious blue skies. It was breathtaking. After omelette for breakfast we headed up over the hill from yesterday and down the other side to the flat plateau between the mountains. The snow cover peaks loomed above us and the snow and ice crunched under our feet. We felt like the only people in the world. 

Given I've been a bit behind the others the last few days, dorja had got Pravin one of the other Sherpas to keep me company and tell me when to stop so I wasn't pushing myself too much. 

Today we tried a new stratergy of leaving each stop 15 mins early to get a bit of a head start. We stopped for tea after crossing the frozen river on a narrow plank of wood. He decided to have lunch there as well as we'd been going for several hours. After lunch Pravin and I headed out before everyone else up the steep hill towards the Everest memorial. 

At this stage, despite the steep incline, I was feeling pretty good and pretty strong. We were going at a good pace with regular stops. We got to the top before the others arrived finding the memorial of famous Nepalese and western climbers who sadly died climbing Everest. The others arrived and we had 10 mins sun bathing in our full hiking gear on what felt like the roof of the world. 

We headed off together for the hour and a bit hike to lobuche. I was exhausted. At 4900 meters every step felt like a marathon. I was out of breath quickly and I'm pretty sure I'd pulled a muscle between my ribs from all the heavy breathing which was killing me every time I took a deep breath. 

We finally arrived at lobuche to wifi and mars bars as well as rooms with extra blankets. It's going to be -20 tonight.

I was exhausted. Head throbbing. Dizzy. Oxygen deprived. Generally feeling rubbish. The wifi helped to speak to family and friends all who we encouraging and supportive. 

I forced down more pain killers and diamox and veg fried potatoes for dinner hoping I'd feel a bit better. To be honest I really don't. 

Tomorrow brings everything we've been working towards, Everest base camp. Then sleeping at 5100 meters before attemp to summit kala pattar the following morning for the worlds best view of Everest and the Himalayas. 

I should be really excited and I am but I'm so exhausted. No amount of 14 hour shifts or half marathons compare to this. I hope after a good night sleep I'll be fighting fit and raring to go for the day ahead. 

Day7: acclimatisation day in tenboche

We woke up to a cold and cloudy day at 4480 meters. I had a superb night sleep despite the -15 temp due to double thermals and double blankets. The others had a less good night sleep. I woke up with a mild altitude headache again but it soon subsided with paracetamol. Delightfully the toilet had frozen as well as all the toiletries in my room and my baby wipes!

Despite the weather we decided to go on our acclimatisation hike anyway. Part of altitude training is 'climb high sleep low'and having an acimatisation day for every 600 meters you go up. 

We headed off up the hill overlooking tenboche and it was tough but I didn't find it any harder than normal. I think the altitude was starting to effect a few of the others. We went up about 150 meters puffing a little. Then I suggested we go a bit higher just to push a little bit, so we went up to 4780 meters above the town.

We turned around and headed down the steep slope then wandered through the village back to the lodge. The river and streams were all frozen over.

We had a delicious lunch of hash brown with egg, put the fire on - burning yak poo, and settled in with another Everest book for the afternoon and ginger and lemon tea. 

With no phone signal, wifi or power it was so nice just being completely away from it all and just be and rest for a while before the days ahead. 

The boys headed off to play pool and returned with twix and Mars from the only open shop in town.

Dinner was early as there was no electricity to light the main room. More carbs. It started snowing and we huddled in the main room chatting until 7pm when we decided we'd had enough and it was time for bed.

The next few days promise to be a challenge. Up to lobuche for a night before heading to base camp the day after tomorrow! Excited. Petrified. Apprehensive. 

Day 6: phortse to dengboche

After a reasonably good night sleep, with only one toilet run to the outside loo, we awoke to glorious views of the Himalayas and a breakfast of fried egg and chapati. 

I little apprehensive, as Dodja had previously said this was a particularly difficult day. Although we'd also met some Trekkers going the other ways hi said the views were spectacular. 

We started heading up and up and up over the top of a hill before joining the narrow path cut into the mountainside. We walked along above the tree line, Everest in the distance and the half frozen river below us. It was steadily

Up for hours. My little legs struggled a bit with steps half my height. I chatted away to Pravin the Sherpa about buddism and Nepalese culture, and chatted to Dodja about summoning Everest and k2. 

Exhausted after 3 hours of hiking we stopped for 'tea' in a beautiful village with bronze prayer wheels. Unfortunately we were greeted with the news of no tea. While Dodja did a lap of the village to find someone willing to make us tea and we  sat in the sun. 

Finally he found someone who made us coffee in a smoke filled room before we headed up hill and above 4000 meter mark for the first time towards lunch. This part was reasonably flat but I was exhausted. I think the last few days of hiking were starting to catch up with me. 

We finally arrived at lunch. A lone lodge in the middle of know where. I had the best veg fried potatoes of my life. 

After lunch despite only a short 1 1/2 hour trip to our next stop, we had a lot of up hill to reach 4430m. A total climb of 600 meters today and a distance of 14.5km.

I was relieved and exhausted when I arrived and glad to have a room with tons of blankets and pillows. We're planning to stay here for 2 nights.

We chilled/ cleaned up / re packed my whole bag before more honey ginger lemon tea and siting round the fire learning Nepalese games with stones and talking about our favourite films and music. I had a delightful supper of tomato soup and chipatis and can't wait for a lie in till 8 am tomorrow! 

Altitude wise, i feel tons better today. Less headache, less dizzy. I feel tired but it's been a really tough hiking day today. 

I now feel like I might actually make it to base camp and kalapattar which I never thought I'd say this time yesterday.