Day 13: heading back to lukla

We awoke this morning for a 5 hour trek back to lukla, with the hope of getting our flight out of the mountains tomorrow. 

The sun was shining as we walked across rope bridges, through the Forrest than lines the river. The path was 'undulating' at best, with more up hill than down hill as we steedily climbed back up to lukla town. 

We stopped after 2 hours for tea at the first tea house we stayed at nearly two weeks ago. There was real coffee which was a dream. 

We then had our last 3 hour trek back. We walked mostly in silence, all quietly reflecting on the previous two weeks; the endless miles we seem to have walked, the cold, the lack of showers, the cold. 

We turned a corner and steadily climbed the last uphill into lukla. It started to snow. The streets were lined with children playing football and bat and ball. Chickens running everywhere, dogs following us along the road. We walked back passed 'starbucks' ( it's not real by the way) lukla burger and Everest coffee shop, arriving as our guest house, the first place we ate when we arrived. 

Exhausted.

We headed back out to Everest coffee shop for lattes and wifi and even a slightly stale chocolate brownie.

Dinner was at 6. We decided to pay for all the Sherpas and guides supper as well. We had our last 'Nepalese veg set' gave out tips on envelopes with cards written on the London postcards I brought with me. Louise did a little speak and we settled in for an Everest beer or two.

Tomorrow we await our fait of whether the weather gods are kind to us and our flight out of lukla runs, letting us back to the land of showers, clean clothes and onward flights home. 

Day 12: Namche fun times and heading down

We had a lovely lesuirely lie in this morning in namche, getting up around 10 and heading to the 'Everest bakery' for real coffee and wifi. We did a bit of shopping round namche then had lunch at our tea house before heading off for a down hill walking day back towards lukla.

We were all feeling pretty rough today. After the elation of base camp we are now all a bit over the freezing cold and really want a shower and clean clothes.

We headed out of namche for an hour of downhill walking. The scenery was stunning with pine trees, eagles and the sound of the river in the background. It even started to snow.

Down hill was great but felt much tougher on our muscles and joints. About half way down I was feeling pretty dizzy and starting to get vertigo, probably from exhaustion of the previous 10 days or so.

We continued down passed herds of yaks and mules and finally came to the double rope bridge ( as seen in the Everest film). We had 4 rope bridges over the river over the next few hours before arriving at our lodge for the night.

We arrived around 3 in time for the fire being lit. Changed clothes (attempted to find something clean) and settled in for an early dinner of more momos.

It's crazy to think we only have one more day of trekking. We've walked over 150 km in the last ten days for on average 7 hours a day. We've survived on limited sleep with most nights below minus 20. All we've eaten is potatoes, rice and noodles. Oh and the occasional egg.

Tomorrow, just 5 hours of hiking lie between us and lukla where we await with baited breath to find out if our flight is running on Tuesday morning to take us back to Kathmandu. Land of the hot shower. 

Day 11: arriving back at Namche

OWe awoke this morning in the warmth of 4000 (ish) meters. I think I slept nearly 12 hours after the epic walk yesterday. 

We headed off for another long day of hiking. Which started mostly down hill towards the river for an hour and a half. Despite it being really nice walking down hill, it was quite tough on our knees and by the time we got to the river at the bottom of the valley we were all complaining of achey muscles and joints.

We then headed up hill ( again ) towards tyanboche monastery. Despite it being a really tough walk up hill it was so beautiful, kinda like walking through a winter wonderland, snow on the ground and frozen streams. After another hour uphill we arrived at the monastery. 

It's one of the highest in the world and where hikers visit for blessings before attempting to summit Everest.

Inside was beautiful. No photos allowed. Hand painted walls and golden Buddhas.

Unfortunately our time there was short lived and we decided to press on back down hill towards the river where we stopped for a much needed lunch by a waterfall, sitting outside in the sun and enjoying the increased level of oxygen. 

After lunch we crossed another beautiful but scary rope bridge before and hour and a half up hill constantly on the other side of the river. It was pretty tough again but much easier at this altitude. The views were breathtaking. It was so nice to be back at the tree line with the scent of pine in the air, but still surrounded by snow covered peaks with the view of Everest. 

We reached the top and the path evened out for another 90 mins until we reached namche. We walked over 30 km today. Exhausted we arrived at our new lodge for the night and wandered back into town to our pizza place with the wifi. 

Namche feels like the first bit of civilisation again, despite being another two days walk to our flight home. There's wifi ( occasionally and very slowly) ATMs ( most of which don't work) and apparently hot showers ( or so we were told but apparently it's too cold).

After what feels like a lifetime of walking I'm looking forward to a well needed lie in tomorrow before heading further down the valley for our second to last day of trekking. 

Day 10: Coming down: Gorek shep to Ortso

I decided not to go to kala pattar this morning, as did Louise one of the other girls. We had a little lie in till half 7 then got up for a quick breakfast then headed down hill. The first 3 hours were across the scree again, with a gradual

Incline down hill. Lou wasn't feeling so well so we took it fairly easy.

We stopped for a quick break at the little place we stayed with the amazing wifi then continued further down along side a frozen river and a frozen lake towards the Everest memorial. From there it was straight down hill to lunch and a well needed rest. That was 15 km done already. The others caught up with us as we were just leaving. Then we headed down via Pheriche in a cold and windy valley towards Ortso where we planned to spend the night. 

We were all exhausted today, and after a total of 24 km Walking downhill today and the effort and excitement of yesterday. 

I think today we all realised we just want a hot shower, clean clothes and a warm bed. We still 3 days away from our flight back to Kathmandu - land of the hot shower. 

Day 9: Everest Base Camp

After a terrible night sleep at 5000

Meters we awoke excited but all with headaches, ready (ish) for our trek to base camp. Another breakfast of coffee chapati and egg and Pravin and I set off early to get a little bit of a head start up towards base camp. 

The sun was starting to rise coating the snow covered peaks but it was freezing in the valley ( I call it a valley, but it was at 5000 meters). I had all the layers on, 2 base layers, wind stopper fleece and mums red wind stopper coat plus 3 pairs of socks, think gloves, hat and neck warmer. 

We made a good start and were quite a long way up before we spotted the rest of the group further down the trail. The sun finally came over heating us up but also burning my nose despite the factor 50 suncream I applied every 5 mins.

We continued up, the terrain looked like something from another planet, gravel covered glacier, high mountain peaks, no plants or trees. Deadly silence. The occasional crash of an avalanche on one of the peaks that surrounded us. 

By lunchtime we arrived a Gorak Shep at 5160 meters and collapsed with exhaustion. Forcing down salty chips and full fat Coke to try to get some energy for the last push up to base camp. 

Again Pravin and I set of a bit before the rest around midday and headed first over a flat plateau for 15 mins or so which looked like the surface of the moon. We then headed onto the scree that ran alongside the glacier. There wasn't really a path to speak off, just huge boulders and scree to scramble over. It was exhausting. On the up hills it was so tiring. I was getting out of breath so quickly, with half the oxygen found at sea level. 

Half way up I cracked out my emergency Mars bar but every step was such an effort. 

The others caught up, everyone feeling a bit tired and headachey. Finally we turned onto the glacier, scrambling on the ice, the khume ice fall ahead of us we came over the middle of the glacier and base camp lay in front of us. The only reminants were a few memorials covered in prayer flags. It's too cold for teams

To climb to the top of Everest this time of year so there's no one currently living there at the moment.

We collapsed with exhaustion/ elation. Finally there. Is disbelieve we'd finally made it. There were so many points on this journey I never thought I'd make it. 

We took photos, including one of me with the tiny bottle of jack Daniels grandpa gave me, although I couldn't stomach taking a sip.

After 20 minutes or so of chilling at base camp we started heading back down, over the glacier, along the scree, back towards Gorak shep, tea, more potatoes and the highest elevation 'sleep' I'll probably ever have. I say sleep, it's very hard to sleep at this altitude. Especially given the minus 20 temperature. 

But the time we got back to the tea house my head was throbbing, I felt nauseous and completely exhausted. I took most of the meds in the kit and tried to warm up by the fire. 

After the exhaustion of today I've decided to skip out on the morning trip to kala pattar tomorrow and get back down to lower altitude sooner. 

So today was the day I reach Everest base camp. How many people can say that!

Day 8: Tengboche to Lobuche

We woke up with snow on the ground and glorious blue skies. It was breathtaking. After omelette for breakfast we headed up over the hill from yesterday and down the other side to the flat plateau between the mountains. The snow cover peaks loomed above us and the snow and ice crunched under our feet. We felt like the only people in the world. 

Given I've been a bit behind the others the last few days, dorja had got Pravin one of the other Sherpas to keep me company and tell me when to stop so I wasn't pushing myself too much. 

Today we tried a new stratergy of leaving each stop 15 mins early to get a bit of a head start. We stopped for tea after crossing the frozen river on a narrow plank of wood. He decided to have lunch there as well as we'd been going for several hours. After lunch Pravin and I headed out before everyone else up the steep hill towards the Everest memorial. 

At this stage, despite the steep incline, I was feeling pretty good and pretty strong. We were going at a good pace with regular stops. We got to the top before the others arrived finding the memorial of famous Nepalese and western climbers who sadly died climbing Everest. The others arrived and we had 10 mins sun bathing in our full hiking gear on what felt like the roof of the world. 

We headed off together for the hour and a bit hike to lobuche. I was exhausted. At 4900 meters every step felt like a marathon. I was out of breath quickly and I'm pretty sure I'd pulled a muscle between my ribs from all the heavy breathing which was killing me every time I took a deep breath. 

We finally arrived at lobuche to wifi and mars bars as well as rooms with extra blankets. It's going to be -20 tonight.

I was exhausted. Head throbbing. Dizzy. Oxygen deprived. Generally feeling rubbish. The wifi helped to speak to family and friends all who we encouraging and supportive. 

I forced down more pain killers and diamox and veg fried potatoes for dinner hoping I'd feel a bit better. To be honest I really don't. 

Tomorrow brings everything we've been working towards, Everest base camp. Then sleeping at 5100 meters before attemp to summit kala pattar the following morning for the worlds best view of Everest and the Himalayas. 

I should be really excited and I am but I'm so exhausted. No amount of 14 hour shifts or half marathons compare to this. I hope after a good night sleep I'll be fighting fit and raring to go for the day ahead. 

Day7: acclimatisation day in tenboche

We woke up to a cold and cloudy day at 4480 meters. I had a superb night sleep despite the -15 temp due to double thermals and double blankets. The others had a less good night sleep. I woke up with a mild altitude headache again but it soon subsided with paracetamol. Delightfully the toilet had frozen as well as all the toiletries in my room and my baby wipes!

Despite the weather we decided to go on our acclimatisation hike anyway. Part of altitude training is 'climb high sleep low'and having an acimatisation day for every 600 meters you go up. 

We headed off up the hill overlooking tenboche and it was tough but I didn't find it any harder than normal. I think the altitude was starting to effect a few of the others. We went up about 150 meters puffing a little. Then I suggested we go a bit higher just to push a little bit, so we went up to 4780 meters above the town.

We turned around and headed down the steep slope then wandered through the village back to the lodge. The river and streams were all frozen over.

We had a delicious lunch of hash brown with egg, put the fire on - burning yak poo, and settled in with another Everest book for the afternoon and ginger and lemon tea. 

With no phone signal, wifi or power it was so nice just being completely away from it all and just be and rest for a while before the days ahead. 

The boys headed off to play pool and returned with twix and Mars from the only open shop in town.

Dinner was early as there was no electricity to light the main room. More carbs. It started snowing and we huddled in the main room chatting until 7pm when we decided we'd had enough and it was time for bed.

The next few days promise to be a challenge. Up to lobuche for a night before heading to base camp the day after tomorrow! Excited. Petrified. Apprehensive. 

Day 6: phortse to dengboche

After a reasonably good night sleep, with only one toilet run to the outside loo, we awoke to glorious views of the Himalayas and a breakfast of fried egg and chapati. 

I little apprehensive, as Dodja had previously said this was a particularly difficult day. Although we'd also met some Trekkers going the other ways hi said the views were spectacular. 

We started heading up and up and up over the top of a hill before joining the narrow path cut into the mountainside. We walked along above the tree line, Everest in the distance and the half frozen river below us. It was steadily

Up for hours. My little legs struggled a bit with steps half my height. I chatted away to Pravin the Sherpa about buddism and Nepalese culture, and chatted to Dodja about summoning Everest and k2. 

Exhausted after 3 hours of hiking we stopped for 'tea' in a beautiful village with bronze prayer wheels. Unfortunately we were greeted with the news of no tea. While Dodja did a lap of the village to find someone willing to make us tea and we  sat in the sun. 

Finally he found someone who made us coffee in a smoke filled room before we headed up hill and above 4000 meter mark for the first time towards lunch. This part was reasonably flat but I was exhausted. I think the last few days of hiking were starting to catch up with me. 

We finally arrived at lunch. A lone lodge in the middle of know where. I had the best veg fried potatoes of my life. 

After lunch despite only a short 1 1/2 hour trip to our next stop, we had a lot of up hill to reach 4430m. A total climb of 600 meters today and a distance of 14.5km.

I was relieved and exhausted when I arrived and glad to have a room with tons of blankets and pillows. We're planning to stay here for 2 nights.

We chilled/ cleaned up / re packed my whole bag before more honey ginger lemon tea and siting round the fire learning Nepalese games with stones and talking about our favourite films and music. I had a delightful supper of tomato soup and chipatis and can't wait for a lie in till 8 am tomorrow! 

Altitude wise, i feel tons better today. Less headache, less dizzy. I feel tired but it's been a really tough hiking day today. 

I now feel like I might actually make it to base camp and kalapattar which I never thought I'd say this time yesterday. 

Day 5: Namche to Phortse

After a pretty good nights sleep apart from the diamox making me need to wee every 5 minutes we awoke to another day of gorgeous blue sky and Everest views. 

It was tough leaving namche, the last real bit of civilisation; with its pharmacies, pizza and plethora of shops selling everything a Trekker could possibly need. As well as wifi. 

We ventured off, up hill again for another 7 hour trekking day. Apart from a mild headache this morning, I was feeling pretty good. But as we began the ascent I soon became out of breath again and at points was really struggling. Up until tea the path was pretty flat with a continuous view of Everest ahead of us. But after tea towards lunch it was pretty much just up hill. I wasn't as breathless as yesterday but I found it really tough. 

At lunch despite the wonderful views I was feeling pretty despondent. Exhausted and not very well. I had a bit of a realisation that I'm a 5 day walk from a flight back to civilisation and the only way back now would be walking or a helicopter if I get really ill. It is amazing here. It really is. But I don't want to push myself too much as I know that altitude sickness can be catastrophic. It's a difficult balance between enjoying the trip and not being paranoid about every little symptom and being realistic about how I feel and if I am getting sick. 

With lunch at 3975 m we headed downhill ( the only time I lead the charge) towards the river we would have to cross and head back up the other side towards our stop for the night. It was so good to go downhill and breath in the oxygen rich air. I was flying. But soon was time for the up. Consistently for an hour. 

I felt so lucky to have Santa the Sherpa helping me every step. Distracting me with wild life - deer, mountain goats and pheasants and encouraging me to stop when I was getting out of breath. 

We arrived at Phortse around 4 for tea and chill before supper. We're now at 3880m having trekked 16 km today. 

Our lodges are getting more rustic, with a long drop outside toilet here, but luckerly also a wood burner in the main room. 

I crashed in my room and decided the only thing that might help was a phonecall home to mum. I was so glad she answered. I hope she couldn't hear my tears down the phone. Two short minutes on the phone lifted my mood and gave me a bit more motivation to go for it. 

Supper tonight was more momos and chapatis before our briefing for tomorrow and a pep talk on altitude sickness. I'm gonna up my diamox tomorrow and just take it really slow. I hope my body can handle this but it seems it doesn't matter how fit your are or what you eat or what mess you take, if your gonna get altitude sickness it just happens.

We saw one of the guys from our flight today who decided to turn back because he was feeling so unwell. 

To  be honest I'm feeling pretty scared right now. We still have 4 days until base camp and right now I'm really not sure I can make it. It's still such a long way. 

I'm just gonna focus on each day and try to enjoy it. I'm so lucky to be here, in the beautiful Himalayas, in an area so remote that so few tourists have seen, walking in the footsteps of Edmund Hillary, rob hall and of course levison wood. 

Let's see what tomorrow brings.

Day 4: Namche acimatisation day

After another broken sleep ( I think it's the altitude ) we awoke to glorious sunshine and the sounds of helicopters going up and down the valley. 

I woke up with a mild headache but was hoping it would just pass.

We had a breakfast of bread eggs and potatoes with a lot of coffee ( my favourite part of the day ) before heading out for our acimatisation walk. 

We started heading up 100 m to the museum and I was feeling really breathless, having to stop every few minutes to get my breath. One of the disadvantages of growing up 0m above sea level. Finally we made it to the museum and turned around to see our first view of Everest. It was epic. I could probably come home now and be happy.

We took a few photos and then wandered around the museum looking at photos of Edmund Hillary and learning about Sherpa culture. 

Next was a brutal acclimatisation hike up another 300 m to the helipad above Namche. I found it really tough. Was really breathless and lagged behind the group a little bit. When I stopped I recovered quickly. But as soon as we started heading up again, became really breathless. One of the Sherpas kindly stuck with me, encouraging me to stop when I needed to and take it slow.

We were cheered up by the appearance of Kurt, a lone American traveller we met on the plane who we lost track of yesterday. 

We finally got to the top, shortly after a helicopter landed bringing up wood for building. We wandered over the watch it upload then take off into the mountains.

Was a nice site to greet us. 3845 meters up. The walk down was a dream. So much easier. I instantly felt better. And less oxygen hungry.

We rewarded ourselves with pizza and wifi for lunch. Connecting to the real world. And making sure people knew I survived the lukla flight. 

On the way back to the lodge for an afternoon nap, I picked up some fleece lined yak wool socks I was eyeing up yesterday. Probably the best purchase of my life.

A well deserved nap later I felt a whole lot better and warmer and was ready for lemon ginger tea round the fire followed by chips for dinner and another evening of sharing stories. 

Feeling pretty apprehensive about the next few days after how unwell I felt this morning. I really hope the diamox kicks in and I wake up fighting for tomorrow. 

Fingers crossed.

Day 3: Phagding to Namche Bazar

After another 12 hour sleep last night in my wooden wall room I got up for a breakfast of omelette and toast as well as to strong Americanos to get me going for the day. Donja had already warned us today would b tough and he wasn't wrong.

We left phakding around half 8 and started our first full day hiking. It started easy enough. We crossed beautiful rope bridges with clear glancier river water running below us. Singing Taylor swift and she'll be coming round the mountain. Stopped for a coffee break around 11 at a place with the toilet with the best view in the world, snow cover trees, Himalayas and clear streams. 

We then had another few hours up to lunch after entering the saragartha national park. We sadly saw a Nepalese man from the army being carried down on a stretcher. We were told he had 'lung problems from altitude' but the weather was too bad for a helicopter to get to him. He was being carried miles all he way back to lukla, where there is a hospital, to wait for the weather to clear up so he could get down lower. It did make the dangers of altitude sickness a little bit more real and we all decided we would start taking diamox tonight just in case. 

After a carb heavy lunch we set off up hill. And pretty much continues uphill for the next 3 hours. Up and up and up. Despite my marathon training, some of the steps were half my height and I lagged behind a little bit. With the guide encouraging me to stop and catch my breath. I had too say no to my inner Tritton who just wanted to 'win'. I think the new winning is survival and not getting altitude sickness. 

One of the guys in the group kindly lent me his walking poles (sorry mum I couldn't fit yours in my rucksack)! They did help a lot but I was still relieved to see the sign for namche bazaar! 

We hiked 16 kilometers ( over 10 miles) and climbed just over 800 meters. 

We arrived at 'Everest lodge' and settled in for some lemon and ginger tea before a wander round the village finding 'pizza hut' and 'Starbucks' (photos to follow) as well as more book stores selling all the books on Everest and Nepal you could imagine. 

There were also shops with relics from old expeditions such as vintage oxygen cylinders and ropes. There were beautiful Tibetan made rugs and yak wool socks. As well as tees and beanies with 'Everest base camp' written on them.

We headed back for another supper of momos followed by freshly made hot apple pie then settled in for a few rounds of 'snog marry avoid' with various celebrity combos and joking about this American guy named Kirk we met on the plane who we seemed to loose track off today. Hoping he wasn't lost in the fog. 

Total distance today 16km. Total climb 800 m. Current altitude 3440 m.

Day 1: Kathmandu

After a long 12 hour sleep I finally

Mustered the energy to get up and go find coffee this morning. My original plan was to go see the sights but I settled for coffee x3 and toast and a wander round the local area of Thamel. 

It's pretty geared up for Trekkers with tons of shops selling down jackets and hiking boots a lot cheaper than back home! There's also a ton of book shops selling maps and books about Everest which are sold out on Amazon. I also stumbled across some amazing cashmere shops. May be visiting those when I get back to Kathmandu. 

There's lots of buildings still in disrepair from the earthquake last year. Indeed part of our hotel is still being rebuilt as well as multiple shops and the famous Durbar Square. 

At 2 pm we had our intrepid briefing where I met my group of 'trekkers'. 2 other girls and 3 guys. 3 Aussies, a Canadian and 2 Brits. Our guide is a Sherpa name bokja, who quietly let sliphed  summitted Everest. So we should be in good hands. After a recap of the itinerary and some safety advice, we headed out to do some last minute shopping in the local trekking shops. Some of the group hired sleeping bags and down jackets for £1-2 per day. 

My biggest concern was getting cash out. We need enough to get us through the whole trip as there are no atms in the Himalayas. But luckerly I found a good place and was very thankful it didn't swallow my card. 

After stocking up on Mars bars we headed for supper at the roadhouse cafe, seems we weren't the only ones who read their lonely planets, it was teaming with westerners all sporting there newly purchased down jackets ( and to think 2 months ago I didn't know what a down jacket was!) 

The pizza was amazing, washed down with a local gurka beer. 

For now it's repacking my bag time to ensure its less than 10 kg. a last hot shower before baby wipes become the only method of cleaning and try to get a good nights sleep before the real adventure begins tomorrow. With a 5 am meet time. Here goes! 

Arrived safe!

I made it to Nepal. Shattered after the journey. 24 hrs since I left Bethnal Green.

Flights were fine with an OK stopover in Doha. Arrived and got my visa, really straight forward hardly any queue. Found an ATM but it was caped at 10,000 rupees which is about £65. I expect I'll have to do the rounds tomorrow to get enough to cash out for the trek.

Found my driver in the end, bit pushy with tipping but tourism has been at an all time low since the earthquake last April.

A short 15 min drive brought me to the area of Thamel and the Kathmandu guest house. It's a lovely gated colonial style hotel which is a hot spot for Trekkers and tourists. Or so I'm told. It seems pretty quiet at the moment. 

I wandered out the gates to try to find food and friends to be met by a few pushy tour guides looking for work so I retreated back to the hotel.

I've settled down in the garden for a chicken tikka masala and a garlic naan. Extortionately priced for Nepal at 800 rupees for the lot. £5 ish. The only issue is the constant power cuts when I'm trying to read the menu. I think my head torch will be permanently glued to my head. As will my down jacket whilch will hopefully keep me warm but I'm keep to buy some down boots from one of the local trekking shops.

There's no wifi at the moment but I'll try to get this ups hen I can. For now it's food and sleep.

Namaste from nepal

Doha stopover

Arrived at Doha safe. Much nicer airport than when I last flew via Qatar with Gen to Bali years ago. Haven't had much sleep yet and trying not to doze off in the departures lounge. 

Aiming to catch up on sleep on the next 4 hour flight into Kathmandu. 

Then it's find bag, get visa, get currency, find pick up and get to hotel! 

Welcome to Smuz Adventures

So I'm off to Nepal on the trip of a life time. Everest base camp. I'm still in utter disbelieve this is actually happening. I hope this blog will keep you updated on my travels and safety and give you some insight into what I'm up to! As Internet will be scarce I'll update as often as you can. But you can subscribe if you want to made it easier to seen if I've posted!