It was tough leaving namche, the last real bit of civilisation; with its pharmacies, pizza and plethora of shops selling everything a Trekker could possibly need. As well as wifi.
We ventured off, up hill again for another 7 hour trekking day. Apart from a mild headache this morning, I was feeling pretty good. But as we began the ascent I soon became out of breath again and at points was really struggling. Up until tea the path was pretty flat with a continuous view of Everest ahead of us. But after tea towards lunch it was pretty much just up hill. I wasn't as breathless as yesterday but I found it really tough.
At lunch despite the wonderful views I was feeling pretty despondent. Exhausted and not very well. I had a bit of a realisation that I'm a 5 day walk from a flight back to civilisation and the only way back now would be walking or a helicopter if I get really ill. It is amazing here. It really is. But I don't want to push myself too much as I know that altitude sickness can be catastrophic. It's a difficult balance between enjoying the trip and not being paranoid about every little symptom and being realistic about how I feel and if I am getting sick.
With lunch at 3975 m we headed downhill ( the only time I lead the charge) towards the river we would have to cross and head back up the other side towards our stop for the night. It was so good to go downhill and breath in the oxygen rich air. I was flying. But soon was time for the up. Consistently for an hour.
I felt so lucky to have Santa the Sherpa helping me every step. Distracting me with wild life - deer, mountain goats and pheasants and encouraging me to stop when I was getting out of breath.
We arrived at Phortse around 4 for tea and chill before supper. We're now at 3880m having trekked 16 km today.
Our lodges are getting more rustic, with a long drop outside toilet here, but luckerly also a wood burner in the main room.
I crashed in my room and decided the only thing that might help was a phonecall home to mum. I was so glad she answered. I hope she couldn't hear my tears down the phone. Two short minutes on the phone lifted my mood and gave me a bit more motivation to go for it.
Supper tonight was more momos and chapatis before our briefing for tomorrow and a pep talk on altitude sickness. I'm gonna up my diamox tomorrow and just take it really slow. I hope my body can handle this but it seems it doesn't matter how fit your are or what you eat or what mess you take, if your gonna get altitude sickness it just happens.
We saw one of the guys from our flight today who decided to turn back because he was feeling so unwell.
To be honest I'm feeling pretty scared right now. We still have 4 days until base camp and right now I'm really not sure I can make it. It's still such a long way.
I'm just gonna focus on each day and try to enjoy it. I'm so lucky to be here, in the beautiful Himalayas, in an area so remote that so few tourists have seen, walking in the footsteps of Edmund Hillary, rob hall and of course levison wood.
Let's see what tomorrow brings.
As you say, focus on one session at a time, what an experience!
ReplyDeleteyou can do it, as you say one step at a time. dont be scared, we are all thinking of you. you have done brilliantly well so far. Better than levison wood with the helicopter to get him to base camp. keep going. think of all the positives going on around you. your sherpa sound brilliant.
ReplyDeletethis post made me cry...you are such a determined and focused person its an inspiration...it sounds like it is a tough but amazing adventure and what that will probably pretty life changing...one step at a time babe...you are almost there
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